Capital Table by Inside Canberra: Inari — One Elegant Bite After Another

Tucked within the bustle of the Canberra Centre, Inari delivers something increasingly difficult to achieve in Canberra dining: genuine atmosphere paired with precision.

Walking in late after a meeting with no booking, there was an immediate sense this was not simply another sushi venue trying to imitate sophistication. The smooth jazz humming softly through the dining room, the warm lighting, the understated Japanese-inspired decor and the attentive service combined to create a distinctly luxurious feel — even in the middle of a busy shopping precinct.

Then came the food.

The evening began with the Kingfish & Tuna Lover, a beautifully balanced sashimi plate layered with jalapeño salsa, coriander and truffle ponzu. The contrast between the richness of the fish and the sharpness of the dressing created a dish that evolved with every bite rather than overwhelming immediately.

The Sashimi Tartare followed, showcasing salmon, kingfish and tuna with onion, capers and truffle ponzu. Delicate, clean and carefully textured, it reflected the restaurant’s broader philosophy: refinement without unnecessary complication.

Perhaps the standout surprise of the evening was the Wagyu Tartare. At first glance deceptively simple, the dish unfolded in layers — creamy egg yolk, subtle truffle notes, sesame and the deep richness of the wagyu itself. Elegant presentation matched genuine depth of flavour.

Even the oysters demonstrated the kitchen’s obsessive attention to detail. The yuzu tomato salsa added brightness while still allowing the natural salinity of the oysters to remain central. A simple concept elevated through balance and restraint.

Everything was washed down with a traditional Japanese favourite — a crisp Sapporo beer — which paired perfectly with the progression of flavours throughout the meal.

What impressed most was the consistency. From the plating to the pacing, the service to the ambiance, there was a clear sense of intention behind the experience. Nothing felt rushed. Nothing felt careless.

Inari describes itself as a fusion of traditional Japanese dishes with modern Australian flavour, centred around premium seafood and on this occasion, it delivered exactly that.

The final bill came to $133.50 for a solo dining experience that genuinely felt premium — and importantly, justified. In a city increasingly crowded with venues chasing aesthetics over substance, Inari manages to achieve both.

Off the cuff, late in the evening, with no reservation and expectations modestly set, this was exceptional.

Canberra has no shortage of ambitious restaurants. But after this visit, Inari is firmly in contention for one of Canberra’s very best.